When planting trees, the first thing you need to take into consideration before selecting a location is the mature height and spread of the tree. If you may be tempted by all the different species that are available, take the time to choose carefully, especially if you have the average size yard, because crowding spoils the growth and appearance of trees, particularly specimen trees.
It is typically most economical to plant young trees. Planting a mature tree is difficult and will be costly if done professionally. It may well justify the expense, however, in case a mature tree is badly necessary for a terrace or for screening. What you are paying or is the time it takes a smaller tree to mature.
The optimum time to transplant a tree is in the first spring or late fall. It is possible to plant trees in full leaf using wilt-proof sprays that seal the leaves against moisture loss until the roots are established, but this costs money and entails greater risks than buying your tree and planting it in planting season.
When planting a tree over 6 feet in height, it will suffer less setback if moved with a bur lapped root ball.
Because the root system needs fertile soil when it's planted, special steps ought to be taken. Dig the hole 2 feet deep and at least 1 foot wider than the full spread of the roots in each direction. The bottom should be broken up with a pitchfork and thoroughly mixed with peat, leaf mold, loam, etc.
Manure may be used sparingly and really should only be spread on the top of the hole or it could burn the roots. The deeper you cultivate the hole, the higher for the tree. Once planted, you can cultivate around it however, not under the roots. If you hit a layer of creating debris or clay, which is never uncommon near a house, you must remove this layer and replace it with good soil, or on top of that, garden humus.
When you are planting a bare root seedling, you will want to protect it by "heeling in" a vacant flower bed where it could be kept before planting as long as it is dormant.
This means laying it on its side at an angle to the ground and covering the roots with good soil. While you are ready to take it from the soil, give it a mud bath or "puddle" it. Have a peek here protects the roots from exposure to air before planting and in addition from any air pockets which might exist around the roots after planting. After filling the hole to the depth required by the roots of the plant, flood it with water to stay the soil at the bottom; when this has drained away, place the tree in the positioning in which it is to grow and fill in the soil around it.
Work the soil round the roots using a stick or shovel handle, and make certain you can find no air pockets. Spread the roots naturally, planting the tree at round the same depth as its former location. Once the hole is two-thirds, of just how full, tramp it down and fill with water again. Complete the rest of the soil without tramping it down, so that the water will drain towards the trunk.
A balled-and-bur lapped tree is one which has been dug with a solid ball of soil where it's been growing in, its root system is thus amply covered and protected. The ball is held set up by a secure covering of burlap and twine. To plant it, set the tree in a hole slightly lower than it stood in the nursery. Work the soil beneath this depth, as described previously.
If the ground is dry, fill the hole with water and allow it soak in before planting. Cut the burlap at the top once you put the tree set up, and roll it back several inches. You will plant the burlap and all. The burlap will soon rot away.
Following the tree is planted it is possible to cut it back sharply. If necessary brace the tree with wire ropes. For the initial year, the more cultivation round the tree the higher, keeping weeds away, too, with straw or mulch, in the spring and fall will help keep the moisture in the ground.